Two summers ago Sileshi Alifom tried to create an East African lasagna. It was part of his ongoing campaign to refine the food at the white-tablecloth Das Ethio­pian Cuisine in Washington DC. Semi-frozen sections of injera, the fermented Ethio­pian flatbread, served as his noodles – Alifom layered them with a yellow split-pea puree, collard greens, red-lentil stew and a mild cheese, all flavours from his childhood.